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Around Lake Trasimeno
It’s all about the lake. A 15 minute drive into Umbria will bring you to Lago Trasimeno, the largest body of water on the Italian peninsular, with a surface area of 128 square kilometres. A vast expanse of luminous water, changeable with the light and the seasons, sometimes milky pale and silver or azure blue and shimmering in the lazy heat of noon.
Ringed by misty mountains it makes a perfect backdrop for the fortified town of Castiglione del Lago. The way it juts out into the lake on a promontory means that it is almost completely surrounded by water. This is the landscape of Perugino and, for landlocked Umbrians, this inviting cool blue water has the magnetic pull of an ocean.
Along the shore are lakeside restaurants and bars, little grassy beaches and sandy lidos. In summer there is all the buzz of Italian beach culture with swimming, sunbathing and pedalo fun. Blue and white ferries glide through the languid water on route to the lakes three tranquil islands Maggiore, Minore and Polvese.
A trip across the water in one of these pristine vessels takes about 20 minutes and as they leave Castigilone at regular intervals you can afford to be spontaneous.
Isola Maggiore, close to the northern shore, is the second largest of the islands and the only one of them which is permanently inhabited. With a population of less than 100 the island’s only fishing village has just one enchanting street. The quay-side houses are built of mellow crumbling stone and silvery olive groves rise up behind them to the Church of San Michele at the islands highest point. There are some pretty walks through the olives with sweeping views out across the lake. A hot trek across the island will bring you to the Cappella di San Francesco and a little chapel that is said to mark the spot where in 1211 St Francis disembarked. There is also a small Franciscan monastery and a wild and abandoned fairytale castle.
Back in the timeless main street I am always struck by how much it resembles a film set, with it’s fishing nets drying in the sun and inside the dimly lit doorways little old ladies on rickety chairs making lace. Half way down the street is the church of Buon Gesu, it has some wonderful, peeling frescoes, from which baroque cherubs smile down from the faded lapis with naïve exuberance.
The island is a great place to have lunch and there are several bars and restaurants all with fantastic lake views.
Castiglione del Lago, with its ‘duelling delis’ is also a good day out. You’ve got to love a town where people cheerily beg you to try delicious morsels of pecorino and salami. Walk up the main street where there is some fine cheese, wine and prosciutto on offer. Past the fountain towards the 13th century Rocca de Leone, the beautiful Fortezza, built as a pentagon with four towers it remains a fine example of medieval military architecture and still dominates the lake. In fact it was such a good example that Leonardo da Vinci himself came up from Rome to study the fortifications.
It is connected to the 16th century Palazzo della Corgna by a strange fortified passage way which made it one of Europe’s most impregnable fortresses. The long passageway is still intact and, as the sun slants in through dusty arrow slits, you can almost hear the shouts and the sound of running footsteps echoing back through time as citizens and soldiers galvanized themselves for action.
The fortezza is one of my favourite places to take visitors as it’s quixotic atmosphere appeals to all ages. From the ramparts there are spectacular views across the lake through umbrella pines and olive groves. The café, (more of a kiosk really) sells a good strong cappuccino in the most glorious setting within the walls of the fort by the ruined chapel amidst a grove of ancient olives. Here there is also an enchanting open air amphitheatre which hosts the famous Trasimeno blues and Cinema ‘Sotto le Stelle’ during the summer months.
Back in town there are some good bars and restaurants, many overlooking the lake and some quirky little shops for souvenirs.
Amanda Hyzler 2008
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